Tuesday, April 7, 2015

Notes for American Crew Socks

Notes for American Crew Socks
Prepared for April 8, 2015 Demo in Lincolnia, VA

This crew sock features a cuff in 2x2 half-pitch rib which is invisibly seamed on the inside of the leg, a sock body that is knit in the round, and a heel and toe that are done using short rows.

There are five parts to the sock: cuff, preheel, heel, foot, and toe.  This sock starts out life as a flat piece of ribbing.  When the cuff is knit, the sock setup is changed so that the rest of the sock is knitted in-the-round.  

The example that I will knit is done at a gauge of 8 stitches and 11 rows to the inch.  The gauge is measured on a swatch that is done in-the-round.  You need to get the same gauge on both the ribber and the main bed.

This sock is 64 stitches, with a cuff that is 64 rows, a preheel that is 20 rounds, a heel and toe that are based on 32 stitches which is shortrowed down to 10 and back up to 32, and a foot section of 60 rounds.
Ribbing stitch size is 4.5 and stockinet stitch size is 5.

A 100 gm ball of sock yarn will be plenty for a sock up to size Men’s 11-12.  I usually buy three 50 gm balls to make very tall, size 13 men’s socks.

(Japanese machines: review your ribber manual for “racked  cast on”, “industrial rib”, and circular knitting.)

PART ! The CUFF
Set your ribber bed so that the ribber and main bed needle numbers line up.
Set your ribber bed for half-pitch- needles and posts are offset.  
Pull forward on both beds all the needles between 32L and 32R.\
Put every 3rd needle back, starting on the left side on the back bed, and starting on the right side on the ribber.

Set both your carriages to KNIT, and make a pass or two to set up your needles, ending COR.
Set the row counter to 0.

Rack the ribber bed one number (left or right) to set the needles so you will get a zigzag when you cast on.  Set your stitch size for the zigzag row- This is usually (on brother machines) 1 or 0.  
Thread your carriage, tie the end of your yarn to your clamp, make sure that your carriages are set to ‘knit’, move the carriages to the left to make the zigzag row.  Hang your cast on comb and weights.
RC = 1, COL

Now, set your carriages for circular knitting in a clockwise direction.   Increase the stitch size to 3.  Knit to the left (needles on the back bed knit), and then knit to the right (needles on the front bed knit. )
RC = 3, COL
Now, set your carriages to knit in back and forth.  Rack the ribber back one number to the original position, so that when you knit, you will have a 2 x 2 rib, and increase the stitch size to your 4.5 (or a stitch size that will give you correct gauge).
Knit to the right.  Check the knitting, and hand-knit any needles that did not knit.
Then knit until RC = 64.  You will end with COR.  The cuff is complete.  

Transfer the ribber stitches to the main bed.  Of each pair of stitches transferred, one will fill an empty needle, and one will double up with a main bed stitch.

Set stitch size on the main carriage to 5 (or size to get correct gauge).  **Japanese machines: take off the ribber arm, and put your regular carriage arm on.**
Knit one row to the left.  
RC = 65 , COL

Using either a 40 stitch transfer comb or garter bar, take off the sttiches from 0 - 32R.
On the ribber bed, put up the needles from 32L - 0.  These are the new home for the stitches you have on the comb.  (for the right sock, move the right side stitches, for the left sock, move the left side stitches.  When you move stitches from the side that is the end of the row, make sure that the yarn coming from the mast is ON TOP of the needles.  Put back into non-work position all needles that you empty.  If you moved the end of the row, and not the beginning of the row, you will need to move your carriages to the other side without knitting.
Then, set RC to 0, set carriages to knit circular clockwise.  Set stitch size to 5.  

Part 2   PREHEEL


You are ready to knit the preheel.  You want to knit 20 rounds of preheel,  and the row counter will count 2 rows for each round, so you will knit until RC = 40.

end COR.

Part 3 HEEL

Japanese machines:  lower the ribber bed and take off the ribber arm and put on the regular mainbed arm.  You will be knitting the heel (and toe) on the main bed only.

This heel uses self-wrap on the way down, and ‘2-down, 1-up’ self-wrap on the way up.  
On the carriage side, pull the end needle all the way forward to hold position.  Make sure carriage is set to ‘hold’. Knit across.  Repeat until you have pulled 11 needles on one side, and 10 on the other.

The Turnaround row:  COL, raise 11th needle on the left and put 11th and 10th needles on the right into upper work position, and knit to the right.
COR, put the 10th needle on the right back into hold, and put the 11th and 10th needles on the left into upper work position and knit across.
Repeat these two rows until you knit all the needles on the left.  Then COL, put the 1rst needle on the left in hold position, and put any remaining needles on the right that are in hold in upper work position and knit across.  Use a tool to put the left needle in hold back in regular work position with the stitch in the hook.  
Set up carriages for circular knitting, and knit one round.  
This completes the heel.  Follow these directions for the toe, as well.


Part 4 FOOT

Set the RC to 0.  Knit 60 rounds, which will be 120 on the row counter.

Part 5 TOE  

Follow the directions for the heel

After you complete the ‘knit one round’ that ends the toe, do one round with ravel cord, then scrap off.

Graft the toe.  Flat seam the cuff.  Done.

A WORD ABOUT SIZES:
To make larger sizes, Each 4 stitches will add about half an inch to the sock circumference.

64 stitches makes a sock around 8  inches around.  68 will be 8 ½  inches.  Your big guy socks will be on 72 stitches or 76 stitches.  

Socks that are the right length from heel to toe are the socks that don’t walk down into your shoe.  If a sock heel won’t stay where it belongs, the sock is probably too short.  If a sock is too long, you generally see that in too much extra fabric at the toe.

If you know the foot length is, say 10 ¼ inches, multilply your row gauge (11 rows per inch) by 10.25 : to get 112.75.  Round to the nearest whole number  : 113.  This is the total number of rows for the foot.  The total foot rows that are knitted in the heel and toe is equal to ⅔ of the total stitches around.  ⅔ of 64 is close to 42 (close is good).  subtract 42 from 113, and you will knit 71 rounds in the section of the foot between the heel and the toe to get a total foot length of  10 ¼ inches.
Notice that if your gauge is only 10 rows per inch, the foot section will be only 60 rounds to get that same 10 ¼ inches length.

My blog can be found at www.sharonwue.blogspot.com
I am on Ravelry (Sharonwue)
Have Fun,  Make Socks
Sharon Wuerschmidt

Thursday, February 26, 2015

The things you do for love, and the birdfoot heel



I decided to use up the leftovers in a couple pairs of socks.  These are always the socks that I experiment with, and some of my best, and worst, ideas have been tried out in leftovers.

My socks are knit in the round, on a superba double bed.  Recently, I was using my CSM in the comfy company of several CSM people, and I took a few minutes to expound on why I like the double bed knitting machine for socks more ;than the CSM.  It all comes down to flexiblilty.  I can have more or less stitches whenever I want.  It made me think.

I want to make socks that have more room around the heel and the arch of my foot- where things get stretched out the most when I wear my socks.  I mean, I want there to be more stitches around the sock in that area,
I also wanted to try out a couple of modifications to the short-row heel.  I wanted the heel to actually use MORE THAN HALF of the stitches.  I think I have figured out how to do that.  I also wanted to use a short-row that put all the needles back into work at one time, instead of one at a time.  Okay, then.

I managed to get these experiments into the socks, and I am pretty satisfied.

I started out by knitting 3 x 2 rib over 72 stitches- so 90 actual stitches in the ribbing- .  (see my recent blog entry for all the details on this. )
Then, I set up the rest of the sock in the round, 36 stitches on each bed.  I knit 4 rounds and increased 1 stitch on each side on both beds, by moving out the outer 2 stitches by one needle, and filling the empty needle with a crossbar from the row below.  Then I **knit 8 rounds, increased 4 stitches** two times.
Now I had a total of 84 stitches, 42 on each bed.  I knit 8 more rows after the last increase row.
Here's a graphic represention of the stitches that I added and, after the heel was complete, subtracted.

Now for the heel- I wanted a heel that used a total of 48 stitches, so I would be shortrowing the 42 needles on the back bed, along with 3 needles on both ends of the front bed.
Here's how that works.  With carriage on right, set up your carriages to knit the back bed, but pass the front bed.
Before you knit across the back bed on the first row of the heel, I handknit the three rightmost stitches on the front bed, wrap the yarn in the hook of the next stitch, then handknit the three rightmost stitches again to get back to the edge.  Now, I knit the back bed- moving the carriages to the left side, where I hand knit the 3 leftmost sttiches on the front bed, wrap in the hook of the next needle, and handknit back to the end.  For the next two rows, I handknit 2 stitches,wrap, handknit back, on both ends, and for the net two rows, that's right! handknit i stitch, wrap, handknit back on both ends.
Now, carriages on right- wrap the yarn in the hook of that rightmost needle on the front bed, and set my back carriage to hold position.  On the first row, pull the end needles on both the left and right ends.  On each row, pull both the right and left next needles into hold position until there are 12 stitches left in the middle, and the carriage is on the right.  (You have knit 12 rows of the heel).  
For the next row,  on the left side, I put all but the end needle back in work position, and knit to the right.
For the next row, on the left, pull  the next (2nd) needle into hold position, and on the right, I put all the needles except the end needle back in work position and knit across.
Now, the carriage is on the right, and I pulled the end needles to hold position on both ends every row until there are 12 or 13  (I forget, lol- something close to that) needles left and carriage is back on left.  I put all the right side needles back in work position and knit to the right.
I set up the carriages for circular knitting.   I make sure that the carriages are no longer set for hold position.  I put the needles that are still in hold position on the left side of the back bed back into regular working position.  I used a transfer tool to put the stitches back in the hooks, and the hooks lined up in regular working position, ready for the carriage.
I knit the first circular row- first right to left across the front bed, then left to right across the back bed.
I was now done with this heel.
This stripe really allows you to see how the heel is done.  By the way- this short row heel is very smooth on the inside- no ridge.  And no holes.

Now,  it was time to reduce the number of stitches, so I knit 4 rounds  and decreased by moving the outer two stitches in one needle, doubling up the 2nd and 3rd stitches from the ends, on both beds and both sides.  **Knit 8 rounds and repeat the decrease**  until back to a total of 36 stitches on each bed.
Then I completed the sock, making the toe by shortrowing on the back bed only on 36 stitches down to 12, and back up, using a self wrap on the on the way down, and 1 up, 2 down on the way back to 36 stitches.

So, how do I like them?  Well, the fit is exactly what I was after.  My socks, going forward, will have a wide load section.  My feet will be happy for it.
As for the birdfoot heel, I like how smooth it is.  Also, since the fussier part, for me, of knitting the heel is putting the stitches back into work, this heel simplifies that part.  I find I do not need to move around the weights as often as with a conventional shortrow up and shortrow down heel.  The birdfoot heel using more that 50% of the stitches, has the effect of moving the pivot point for the heel higher up the ankle, and more forward.  This, combined with the additional stitches, means that the front of the sock over the arch doesn't need to stretch quite as much.  Now for some wear testing.

Gretzsky's shawl finished!

Came out very cozy.
I finished the edge with a wrap-a-round knit-on plain edge.  I cast on 9 stitches, and on every second row, I put one edge stitch on the 5th needle.  Tension was tighter than the original shawl- around 4 on the Bulky.  Started at one corner,  and grafted the stitches when I got all the way around.  The edging curled around both sides, making for a a very neat finish on both sides.  I buried a lot of ends under the curl on both sides.
Here are a couple closeups of the purl side and the knit side.
purl side of gretzsky's shawl


And here are more complete updated directions for the shawl:
First things first- You need a foundation to start.
Cast on with waste yarn- a multiple of 9 stitches.  Each 9 needle section will make a foundation triangle.)  Knit 10 or 12 rows of waste yarn, ending COL, then knit 1 row ravel cord ending COR.  
If you want closed cast-on, then e-wrap and knit each needle.  If you don’t mind open cast-on, just knit row 1 with your garment yarn.  This row needs to be at a loose tension, I used T7.
Set your carriage for holding position.  Set tension for 6 or 7.
Set up for the first triangle.  On the carriage side, leave 9 needles in work position, and move the rest of the needles to hold position.  The 9 needles in work position are the base of the first triangle.  You might need a small claw weight to help, and to move up as you knit the triangle.  
*Now put the right most needle of these 9 into hold position, and Knit 2 rows.  Put the right most of the 8 needles and Knit 2 rows….until there is only one needle left.  Knit 2 rows on that one needle.  Now put the other 8 back into work position (total of 9 in work position) and knit to the right.  Now, put those 9 needles into hold position.  All the needles are now in hold position.  Move the carriage to the left past all the needles in hold. **
Put the second set of 9 needles into work position and follow the directions from * to **.  Put each subsequent set of 9 needles into work position and follow the directions from * to **.
When all the triangles are made,  move the carriage back to the left side, and again taking each set of 9 needles into work position, take each triangle off on waste yarn separately.

The individual entrelac block ( for this pattern)  is 9 stitches by 17 rows.  
The stitches for the blocks of the first row will be picked up from the long edge of the triangle, and will incorporate the open stitches of the next triangle.  One of the triangles has it’s open stitches on the end of the piece.  This is the triangle you will start the row with.  
With purl side out, hang the long edge of triangle on 9 stitches.  Your carriage will be on the side of the triangle’s open stitches.  Again, use a small claw weight and move up as needed.
Now, locate the nearest open stitch on the next triangle and put it on the 9th needle.  Knit 2 rows.  Put the next open stitch on the 9th needle, and knit 2 rows.  Repeat until you are down to the last open stitch.  Put the last open stitch on the 9th needle (go for the part of the stitch that ‘wraps around’), and knit 1 row.  (17 rows knit). You can now pull out the waste yarn that held the stitches that you have transferred to the 9th needle, and use it to  take the 9 stitches of the last row of the block off on waste yarn.  
One block down.  Now finish the row.
The second row will be knitted in the opposite direction.  If your knitted left-to-right on the first row, you will knit right-to-left on the second, and all even rows. You will be able to knit from block to block without breaking the yarn, except for when you end one row of blocks and begin another.

To knit the shawl, The first row of blocks  will be 23 blocks.  You will need three sections of foundation.  Each section will be 72 stitches, making 8 triangles each.  Make sure they are all knitted in the same direction.  The sections will be joined by the blocks of the first row.
Each subsequent row of blocks will be have one  block fewer than the row before.  
The Double-idiot-roll edge:  Cast on 9 stitches on waste yarn, knit a few rows, knit a ravel cord row, and begin with garment yarn and a tension that is tighter that the garment tension.  I used T 4.
On every other row, pick up an edge stitch and put it on needle 5.   When you have knitted around, graft the last row to the first row.

Thursday, February 19, 2015

Entrelac Shawl needs a border!

Okay, we got this far finally.
Gretzsky likes it.
This shawl is made from a shrug that I finished and frogged.  The yarn is some walmart 1 ply synthetic, that has a big tendency to collect static and while the color transition really works well in this entrelac, it did not do the same in the shrug.
However, now I need a border and No, it won't be worm, i cord, piecrust.  It needs to be at least as wide as the blocks are: 9 stitches, and it will be knit as you go, so 2 rows for every stitch.  Probably plain stockinet around 15 rows ( to allow some curl and still have some width) would be just fine. Maybe 16 or 17 stitches with a needle or two out of work in the middle.   I'll let you know.
Here are some close ups of the purl side and the stockinet side.




There are also quite a few loose ends, mostly on the edges, so I will be able to take care of them as I do the border.
If someone needs the details, here they are:
Brother 260, tension 6.  (This technique will work on any midgauge or bulky, I am sure. )
The entrelac block is 9 stitches wide and 17 rows long.  Each new block is picked up from the side of a block on the row before.  If you have never done this technique, I recommend Dianne Sullivan's You Tube intro to Entrelac.
The foundation row of triangles to set up this project had to be done as three 72 stitch strips.  Once the foundation triangles are done, the first row of blocks links them together, and you are off- completing rows that are each one block shorter than the one before.  Each block takes (after all that practice!) around 3 minutes.

Entrelac is a great handknitting technique that can easily be adapted to many knitting devices.  You can, of course, use a flatbed knitting machine.  I'm pretty sure you can use a circular sock machine (getting a vision of how you could do that, and will report here with pics when I try it out.)  You can use knitting combs, all kinds of peg knitters and knitting looms.

Wednesday, February 11, 2015

3 x 2 industrial rib: How I do it and Why I bother

3 x 2 half-pitch ribbing- using racked cast-on
I have always been a fan of what the old ribber manuals refer to as ‘industrial rib’- which is a 2x2 rib set up half-pitch, such that you use 2 out of every 3 needles on both beds, and the beds are offset so that you get a very deep, 2x2 rib.  The rib uses 33% more needles and yarn than a conventional 2x2 rib (Full pitch, 2 needles in, 2 needles out of work across both beds).
One reason I am such a fan is that this rib makes a sock that has a very neat appearance when worn- the rib is not stretched out, and the cast-on edge stretches nicely to accommodate the less-than-slender leg.   


___________________________________________________
___________________________________________________

Note: These pics and directions are for the White/Superba double bed. If you are working on Japanese machines, check your ribber manual for the industrial rib directions. You will be able to adapt them to do the 3 x 2 rib.
___________________________________________________
___________________________________________________

The 2x2 industrial rib is an easy set up:
  1. set your beds for full needle rib- half pitch.
  2. put up into work 2 out of every 3 needles on both beds, such that the 2 needles in work on the front bed are between the sets of 2 needles on the back bed.
  3. rack 1 (left or right) to get your zigzag.  (pull up an extra end needle if you need it)
  4. zigzag row : tension 1 Hang comb and weight.
  5. 2 rows circular tension 3
  6. rack back to rib setup.  tension 4.5.  carriages both set to knit.  transfer the orphan stitch if you had to add one at the end of the row to make your zigzag come out.
  7. Knit your ribbing.


Lately, I have been using a 3x2 rib, based on the industrial rib set-up, for a lot of socks.  It’s a bit of a yarn saver for me, as this rib only incorporates 25% more needles and yarn than the stockinet rows.  I does involve one more step than the 2x2 industrial setup.

3x2 industrial rib setup:
  1. set the beds for full needle rib- half pitch.
  2. put up into work position 3 our of every 4 needles on both beds.  
                      Back Bed:      0 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 1
                     Front Bed:         0 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 1
3.       zigzag row - tension 1, and hang comb and weight.

Here's my zigzag row.


4.  2 rows circular - tension 3
5.     Rack front bed 1 space to the right
                      Back Bed       0 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 1
                      Front Bed            0 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 1
6.  In each set of 3 on the Front bed, transfer the left-most stitch to Back bed , doubling  the right-most stitch on the back sets of 3.

Here's what it will look like when you have transferred the stitches.

7. Tension 4.5.  carriages both set to knit.  Knit your ribbing.

For bigger combinations (3x3, 3x4) the racked cast-on doesn’t work in most applications.  You have to rack 2 spaces, and that tightens the edge too much for many applications.  You can cast on 1x1 or FNR, but then you have to transfer a lot of stitches to set up your rib.  You can always ewrap, but I have not been happy with ewrap on the top edge of a sock.  

This is my cheat-sheet for the 3 x 2 rib cast-on

Now go make some superb (ah!) socks.

Sunday, November 16, 2014

Better, Neater, Faster, Easier.

My friend Linda W., up there on Tug Hill, offered me some sound critique on the hem-top socks.  She told me that her husband would find the hem messy.  She wants to make something with a neater top.  Well, Linda was right.  I was immediately not happy with the hem.  I had used the eon e-wrap for the hem for maximum elasticity.  But that leaves really big floppy loops of yarn on the inside of the hem.  I know they feel okay, but it looked crappy.
On the next pair of socks, I did my knitted e-wrap cast-on on every needle.
When I hung the hem, I still only hung every other bar (the bars between the e-wraps).  The hem is just as elastic as the eon cast-on, and looks so much better.  That aside, the every-needle cast-on solved a couple problems I didn't know I had.  Let me count them out for you.
1. Your waste yarn cast-on can be full-needle, instead of 1x1-  Simply set up your rib pattern on both beds, set the beds to 1/2 pitch (needles staggered), rack 1 (left or right) to get your zigzag row, and after you have done 2 circular passes, set to full pitch (needles opposite) and rack back 1 so your back bed needles face your front bed needles.  You are now done fiddling with needle setup.
2.  The knitted on e-wrap may be a bit snugger on every needle than on eon.  If so, then manually raise the needles on the first bed to knit, and knit them back with the carriage, then do the same on the 2nd bed  to knit.  Nicer cast on row.
3.  The bars, when you hang the hem are still easy to see, and no big loops in your way when you knit the first row after the hem.
4.  This cast-on is faster to do than the old one.  Mostly, I think, because it does not combine changing to  the rib pattern while doing the cast on rows.

I made a couple pairs, and played around with different mock-rib intervals.  I got a little obsessive-compulsive over having my rib pattern be symmetrical, and centered front and back, and having a rib on each side to bridge between front and back beds.  I also obsessed over sock size as it is affected by the ratio between the total needles for the pattern and the net number of needles that actually are in work.  omg!
Turns out, you have to worry about that if your princess can feel the pea under the mattress.

Friday, October 31, 2014

notes on the cadillac socks




RE: socks.  I use the craft council sock chart for sizes.  
It is here:  












The following measurements are for crew-style or dress socks, which usually come several inches above the ankle and below the calf. 11a.















Preview by Yahoo

















 I use the actual foot circumference, along with my stitch gauge, to determine the number of stitches, then round up or down to a multiple of 4.  (I break that rule whenever it is convenient- such as when using a multiple of 3 because I am using a 2-1 rib.)
I use the sock height measurement that I like, rather than the sock height on the chart- to Sort- of decide how much ribbing I will make.  I like to have an inch or two of plain knitting between the ribbing and the heel shaping, so that is also part of the sock height, as well as half of the heel shaping.  
I use the actual foot length to determine how many rows the foot will be.  I subtract 4.5 to 5 inches from the actual foot length (because the heel and toe shaping will take up that much of the length) and multiply what's left by my row gauge to tell me how many rows of foot to knit between the heel and the toe.
Now for the machine knitting.  I use 4 ply sock yarn.  2 ends of 2/24 work, too.  But the sock yarns are superwash and nylon and they wash in the washing machine and dry in the dryer.  The superwash/nylon sock yarns also wear like iron.  The wearer will have them for years.

So- the basic instructions for my cadillac socks :
If my gauge is, for example, 8 st and 11 rows per inch in stockinet in the round, and I want to make a medium woman's crew sock, then I want the sock to be 68 stitches around, for 8 1/2 inches.  The industrial rib will actually have 30% more stitches, but the stockinet part will be 68 stitches throughout.
Cast on in industrial rib on both beds from 34 L to 34 R.  Tension one click less than stockinet tension.  K 68 rows.
Transfer stitches to the main bed, and set up for in-the-round stockinet.  See the notes for this.  
set tension for stockinet. Knit 20 rounds for preheel.
Heel: Shortrow on main bed only- down to 11 - approximately one third of 34.  then shortrow back up.  Please see the notes.
Sock body: knitting circular again, Knit 55 rounds. (for a sock that totals 9 1/2 inches in heel to toe length)
Toe: Knit as for heel.
Knit one complete circular row.  Knit one circular row with ravel cord, and take off on waste yarn.
Seam the ribbing- see the notes.
kitchener the toe.

THE NOTES:
I like to use industrial rib- it stands up nice and does not bind or cut.  It does use more yarn. People with skinny ankles don't need industrial rib- you can just use 1x1 or 2x2.
On your main bed, pull forward the number of needles indicated by your foot circumference.  Push back every 3rd needle.  On your ribber, set to half pitch, and pull up two needles in the space of each out of work needle on your main bed.  Now rack your ribber bed by one click, either left or right, so that you can see that when you knit the first row, you will get a nice zigzag.  You can add a needle on one end or the other to make it work.  Now go to your ribber manual and use the racked circular caston.  Remember which way you racked to set up, so you can rack back to that setup when you are finished casting on.
Also, when you are finished casting on, transfer the stitch on each end needle out to a new needle, and put the original end needle out of work.  You may want those end needles both on the main bed.  I don't mind where they are, but I'm on a fixed double bed.  The purpose of this move is to put some extra yarn in near the end stitches, which will be ever so handy later when you are seaming up the ribbing.   
I knit soft ribbing.  It is knit at a tension that is only once click down from my stockinet tension, which is used on the rest of the sock.  I am thinking that on a brother, I would be ribbing at 4.2(both carriages) and knitting stockinet at 5.1.  You will need to be sure that your ribber knits at the same tension in stockinet as your main bed- do your tension gauge in-th-round, so you will know if you need to set one looser or tighter than the other.
When you have knit all the rows of ribbing, transfer the ribber stitches to the main bed- in each set of two ribber stitches, one will fill the empty needle between two sets of 2 on the main bed, and the other will transfer to a needle that already has a stitch on it.  Move the end stitches in, as well.  You should have the correct number of stitches for the body of the sock.  If I am plus 1 stitch at this point, I leave it that way right now, and after the next transfer operation is completed, I transfer that extra stitch to the last stitch on the opposite bed.  That's just me.
Set your carriage for stockinet and knit one row.
I like the rib seam on the inside of the ankle.  So I make a left and a right sock.  I always make the left first- so on the first sock, I will be transferring the right half of the stitches .  Take the weights off your knitting- put on a claw weight at center left.  Put the stitches from R0 to Rwhatever on a garter bar- the first needle must be on the left end prong of the garter bar. This left end prong will stay close to where it is, and the right end of the garter bar will go down between the beds and then up under the left hand half of the stitches.  You will have folded your knitting in half.  Have your ribber needles raised with the latches open, and carefully drop the garter bar onto the hooks.  You will get very fast at this.  
Set up your beds, weight the ribber side of the sock with a claw weight.  Check your carriages settings and tensions. Beds will be at full pitch (needles opposite)  Knit in the round (RC counts 2 for each round- I write down my end number so I don't confuse myself).  Knit that inch or two of preheel.  Drop the ribber bed down one notch, so you can do the heel on the main bed.  change your sinker place.  change from circular to stockinet
Heel (and Toe) are both short row.  If you have 34 stitches on the main bed, then you are going to shortrow down to 11 - approximately one third of 34.  then shortrow back up.  
Going down: Set for holding position. and stockinet. On the carriage side, pull one needle out to hold position and knit across. Repeat until there are 12 stitches left in the middle.  You will need to weight (or hold down with your fingers as you knit across) because as you get more stitches in hold, your live knitting will be wanting to climb up and make getting a good stitch difficult.  I use claw weights but hang them on the back of the live work by just one or two prongs.  I also use my fingers.
When there are 12 stitches left, pull out one needle on the carriage side, and on the other side, put 2 needles back in upper work position and knit across.  Repeat this row until all the stitches are back in work. This 1 up-2 down does a self wrap that matches the self wrap on the way down.  
When the heel is knitted, some folks swap the end stitches on the main bed with the end stitches on the ribber.  I don't.  If I think I will have a hole, I wrap into the end ribber needle hook when the end needle on the main bed is the last needle in hold.  
Body of sock- set up to return to circular.  Knit the number of rows you calculated for the main body.  Then make the toe the same way you made the heel.
When the toe is complete, return to circular, and knit one complete circular row with main yarn, then one complete row with ravel cord  then 5 or 6 full rows of waste yarn and take off the machine.(make you ravel cord and waste yarn a color that contrasts with your main yarn.)

Kitchener close the toe.  (I do this on the purl side.)
Side seam:  With a double pointed needle (size 2 or 1 is good) pick up the side of the every other edge stitch of your ribbing. If you knit 50 rows of rib, you should have around 25 on each side.  With your cast on yarn, and a blunt tapestry needle (I like an 18) take alternate stitches off the needles from the top of the cuff down.  When you get to the bottom of the opening, stretch the cuff so that the seam is not pulled, then run your yarn back up the seam part way.

How many ways will you go wrong?  The common rookie mistakes involve getting ahead of yourself , or forgetting a step.
You will forget to take off the ribber arm when you change to just the main bed for the heel and the toe.  You will forget to change from the regular arm back to the ribber arm when you go back to circular knitting.  You will forget to set your carriages correctly for circular knitting when you change back and forth.  You will forget to set your main bed carriage to hold position when it is needed.  You will forget to take weights off and you will forget to put weights on. You will forget to check the tension setting.  You will forget to rack back your ribber bed after you cast on.  You will forget to change to full pitch when you set up for circular.
These are a lot the mistakes that we make.  Even as we read the directions carefully, and look at what we are doing-
My advice is to write the directions out in steps that YOU can follow.  Use a sharpie, and hang them on your yarn mast where they are visible as you are working, because I know you will NOT get up and get those directions.  No, you will forget a step, and then, you will go get them.